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A second inning for an old favourite



Fancy a chicken liver ice cream? At the newly reopened Tres in Delhi, you can have it with shallot tart and walnut-apple dressing. Conceived in 2013 by chefs Julia Carmen Desa, Jatin Mallick and Jamsheed Bhote, Tres is a contemporary European restaurant focused on natural flavours and seasonal produce. The Lodhi colony restaurant in the Capital enjoyed a loyal following—and famously long waiting time if you arrived sans reservation— before it shut down in early 2017 (owing to rental issues). Now the restaurant is back, in a bigger space in the same neighbourhood.

“Our ethos is still the same, focused on food and quality beverages, but we have changed our repertoire of cooking, with more international techniques and pronounced world flavours,” says Mallick. “We have more space here, and we have focused on the bar too.” The menu retains old favourites like a home-made salted pork belly, baked artichoke hearts, crusted sea bass, and the restaurant’s signature quick-tossed king prawn and calamari with a radish-cucumber salad and lime chilli dressing.

New additions include the liver ice cream. There is a more expansive vegetarian menu and desserts, which includes a goat cheese bavarois accompanied by baked beets, walnut, apple compote and rye chips. The ambience is as chic with charcoal grey walls offset with lighter BoConcept furniture; the staff uniform has been created by the French-Indian fashion label Lecoanet-Hemant.

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